A toast to ANZAC
Following the footsteps of the light horsemen in the 1917 campaign
In October of 1917, the light horsemen of ANZAC (Australian New Zealand Army Corps), set out on one of the most famous flanking maneuvers of military history. Their successful mission to capture the wells of Be’erSheba broke an 8 month stalemate along the Gaza-Be’erSheba line, and allowed British forces to advance north and eventually defeat the Turks that had controlled this land for over 400 years.
The flanking maneuver from Gaza to Be’erSheba took the ANZACs and their horses through arid dust-planes and barren landscapes. Sources of water were few and far between. Today, a little over 100 years later, the desert is still very much present along the path they took, but farms, communities and even vineyards have taken root, and the ANZAC path has become a popular scenic road.
- Where?
The ANZAC road, between Be’eri and Be’er Sheva
- Who?
A must for Australians and NewZealanders visiting the Negev, and highly recommended for any lover of history
- When?
Any time of year, but best during February and March
- How long?
Approximately 6-7 hours including tastings
* It is recommended to contact the businesses before arrival in order to make a reservation
ANZAC memorial
The ANZAC memorial was built in 1967, for the 50th anniversary of the battles that were fought here in 1917. The memorial is shaped like the letter “A”, and looking north from the top, you can see Ali Muntar Hill, surrounded today by the southern neighborhoods of the city of Gaza. Capturing Ali Muntar hill was the objective of the two failed attempts that preceded our story- one in March and one in April of 1917. Symbolically, if not geographically, this is where the flanking maneuver of October was born.
Eshkol National Park
This National park was established around the Besor springs. This was the last place where the ANZAC horsemen had enough water to let their horses drink freely, before they left on their journey. From here on they would have to rely on small cisterns and primitive wells that were scattered along their planned route. Also located inside the park is the site of Shalal- a christian town from the 5th century. A lucky discovery was made here by ANZAC soldiers during one of the battles: A beautiful mosaic floor of a church that once stood in the town. After the fighting ended, the floor was uncovered and carefully excavated and shipped to Australia, where it is displayed today in the war memorial in Canberra.
Ein HaShlosha Winery - Hill 112
Much has changed since the great war was fought on these plains. The victory in the war, followed by the British mandate over Palestine, was the tipping point that started the long process that would lead, 20 years later, to the establishment of Jewish settlements in the Negev. When Israel gained its independence, new Kibbutzim were built and slowly transformed the desert in this area. Ein Hashlosha is a great example of such a farming community, and the Sabresa Brewry is a great spot to celebrate the fruit of their work. Sabresa is very much an experimental brewery, drawing its influences from European and American brewing styles alike. Alongside their flavorful selection of beers you can also sample wines from the local winery sharing the same space. Ein HaShlosha Winery – Hill 112 is a community project run and operated by local volunteers. Between the wines, the Beer and the selection of spirits- you’re bound to find the right drink to Toast the ANZACs and get back on the road!
The suspended bridge
The ANZACs chose to follow the path of the Besor wadi- A dry wash that only flows after winter rains. Occasionally vegetation has taken root in spots where some groundwater is present year round, and the bridge was built over one of those spots. Talk a stroll along the bridge and enjoy the views and wildlife spotting.
As the ANZACs ventured further south into the desert, and as you will follow in their path, the landscape will become more arid and bare. And yet, even on the wind-blown sand of these plains, modern farming and hard work have been able to create small wonders. Erez Rota grows his tough grapes on these dunes, and produces wines with rich bodies and complexity. The salty soil and extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night cause the grapes to produce more sugar, which, in turn, translates into a high alcohol content in the wines. Erez is also an accomplished artist, and his work can be found all around the farm in statues, sculptures and paintings. Overlooking the vineyards and the winery is his workshop where he hosts classes. You can also spend the night in the rustic cabins on the farm.
Bir Asluj- Golda Park
Bir Asluj was a watering hole and a gathering place for the bedouins of the Negev for centuries. On the last night of their advance through the desert, the ANZAC horsemen and horses had their last rationed drink of water here, and left for Be’erSheba. Next to the junction nearby you can see the remains of a rail bridge that was blown up by their scouts to prevent Turkish reinforcements from outflanking their own flanking maneuver. You can enjoy the shaded park, and take a moment to admire the wildlife and birds that enjoy the small pond. The restored pump-house is a historical building constructed by the British army.
The Be’er Sheva ANZAC memorial center
Our final stop will be in Be’er Sheva, the city that the ANZAC light horsemen, along with other British forces, fought to capture. The memorial center was dedicated in 2017, for the 100th anniversary of the battle. It neighbors the British WW1 cemetery. Here you can visit the displays and learn more about the men that crossed oceans and deserts to capture the biblical city of Be’erSheba.
Don’t want it to end?
The WW1-era town of Beersheba has become a thriving vibrant city now known as Beer Sheva. Its nightlife and cultural scene being driven, primarily, by the young and active student community of Ben Gurion university. Spending a night in one of the boutique hotels of the old city will allow you to experience the many wine bars and avant-garde culinary spots of this fascinating metro.