Two hidden cities, Two hidden wineries
A taste of ancient and new at the Byzantine desert cities of the Nitzana region
Many secrets are hidden between the hills and sand dunes of the Negev desert. Some of them are ancient secrets, long forgotten, and some are new secrets, waiting to be discovered and gain their fame.
Nitzana, the western-most part of the Negev Highlands, is home to both kinds of secrets- The hidden ruins of ancient, 2000 year old cities, which grew from Nabatean trade-stops. Though they have been excavated and studied, there is still much that we don’t know about how these communities thrived in the harsh conditions of the desert, and why they were eventually abandoned. Alongside them, you’ll also find new wineries, relying on modern tech and ingenuity, to produce wines with surprising flavors. These special blends are gaining popularity and even a following, and won’t stay a secret for long. This trip is a great balance of archeology and wine, seasoned with some great scenery and a touch of sunset…
- Where?
The Nitzana region, along road 211, west of highway 40
- Who?
If ancient ruins fascinate you, and you like your wine served casually right at the vineyard- this trip is for you. Some walking required
- When?
Year round. Hot summer days might not be ideal
- How long?
Approximately 6-7 hours including tastings
* It is recommended to contact the businesses before arrival in order to make a reservation
Shivta
Shivta is perhaps the most well-preserved of all of the Negev Desert cities that were recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site. The impressive ruins are protected as a national park, and you’ll even find toilets and water fountains at the entrance. However, because it is isolated and out of the way, there are very few people that visit this site, and the lucky few that do – will have the pleasure of having the entire abandoned city to themselves. Shivta’s buildings are dense and well built. It has spacious homes, paved streets and alleys, olive presses, stables and three three large and lavish churches.
The naves were once covered in expensive marble. Yet, the most striking thing about Shivta, is what it does NOT have – it has no stable source of water. No well, no spring, no stream or river. The entire water supply of the city was dependent on rain. In the desert, no less! And yet, almost in defiance of its scarcity, the people of Shivta diverted the precious rainwater not only to their cisterns, but also to a large strictly-ornamental pond in the central plaza. They were also able to irrigate orchards and vineyards, and made plenty of wine- as is apparent from the two sophisticated wine presses that were discovered in the excavations.
Go back to the road and drive out to rd 211. Turn left (west) and head to Be’er Milka. Drive past the entrance to the residential community, and continue north towards their farming plots.
Boaz and Rina Dreyer were seasoned farmers when they decided to leave their old Kibbutz and move to a new community that was forming in the western-most part of the Negev highlands. The plot they were assigned was just a patch of loose sand dune- constantly beaten by the sun. not exactly what the average person would consider ideal grape growing conditions… And yet, somehow, Boaz and Rina turned their biggest handicaps into their biggest assets: The loose sand is poor in nutrients, but it’s also free of any pests and diseases that are common in heavier soils, and by using drip irrigation the Dreyers can supply the roots with nutrients as well as water.
The hot sun was beating on the vines and hastening the ripening, but with meticulous pruning, Boaz was able to create two layers of branches in the vines, and shade the grapes in the bottom level, with the leaves of the top level. This small vineyard only produces about 1000 bottles a year of excellent single-vineyard wines, all harvested and cared for by the family members themselves. Alongside the vineyard Rina and Boaz grow neat rows of medicinal herbs, and produce aromatic essential oils from them in their small distillery.
Drive back to the entrance to the community of Be’er Milka and after 2 km turn right on the access road to Kadesh Barnea. Follow the signs to the Ramat Negev winery.
What started with a hobbyists wine-making course almost 30 years ago, has turned into a family business and the largest winery in the Negev highlands, producing over a quarter million bottles of their own brands, alongside several brands of other vineyards. The Ramat Negev winery offers a great tasting experience with a wide variety of varietals. Being the oldest winery in the region, Alon Zadok, the founder, has become somewhat of a local celebrity, and while his sons now run the daily activities of the winery, he still loves to meet visitors and discuss wine-philosophy over a glass of Malbec.
While you’re in Kadesh Barnea, you might want to stop by the honey house as well.
City of Nitzana
Head Back south to road 211. Turn left and then right towards NITZANA and EZUZ. Pass the entrance to the Nitzana Educational center, and arrive at Nitzana National park. Park at the bottom of the hill and climb up to the top along the restored stairs. Like its sister, Shivta, the city of Nitzana dates back to a rest stop along the Nabataean trade routes. The original fort was built at the top of this dominating hill, but the city grew and sprawled down all around the hill. Wells we dug to reach the local aquifer, and the city had a constant supply of drinking water.
The ruins of the churches of city- one at he top and two at the bottom of the hill, are still visible, but the rest of the structures from the ancient city are hard to visualize. This is because most of the stones from the old buildings were used, in the beginning of the 20th century, for the construction of a Uja El Hafir – an administrative town, built by the Ottomans at this same location. During WW1 this town grew to become an important logistical center for the Turkish-German armies, which required even more building material and further destroyed the ancient ruins. The most impressive structure at the top of the hill is the military Hospital built at that time.
The view from the top of Nitzana offers a panoramic look at the farming communities and of the Western border with egypt. It is a perfect spot for catching the sunset and grabbing some unusual photos.
Make it an overnight…
If you’ve already taken the time and made the drive out to Nitzana, it would be a shame to hurry back. A 10 minute drive south from the National park will bring to the tiny community of Ezuz. This hidden getaway is home to Cafe’ Ezuz– a french inspired eatery with a friendly vibe and great menu. You’ll also find some great lodging options in one of the B&B Cabins available around the tiny community, or in the Saharan-inspired Be’erotaim desert lodge, located just outside. In the morning you can go bird watching, camel riding or Sand boarding. On the other hand, you did leave a few bottles of wine unopened yesterday, and they still require your expert opinion…