Reviving the flavors of the incense route
Follow the footsteps of ancient nomads along the famous road that became a UNESCO world heritage site
The Nabatean incense route was an important trading route, since abandoned. Caravans of camels, loaded with myrrh and frankincense, made their way from southern Arabia through Petra all the way to Gaza on the Mediterranean coast. Perhaps the most challenging section of this route was the crossing of the Negev desert. The combination of its treacherous terrain and challenging climate forced the Nabatean traders to build infrastructure to support the caravans on their way: Forts, cisterns and caravan rest stops. All of these were declared world heritage sites by UNESCO in 2005. Today, the journey along this road is a fascinating jeep trip through tough desert terrain and along hidden paths.
- Where?
The incense route between Moa, in the Arava valley, and Sde Boker, in the Negev Highlands
- Who?
Anyone with a desire to go deep into the desert and discover its secrets on 4X4
- When?
Any time of year, but best at the end of winter
- How long?
Full day. 8-9 hours
* It is recommended to contact the businesses before arrival in order to make a reservation
Where to start?
This Jeep tour starts in the Arava valley. Spend the night here to get an early start. Alternatively, if you are landing in Israel at the Ramon Intl airport, and are willing to hit the ground running, this jeep tour is a great way to turn the commute from the airport into an adventure.
Before we dive deep into the desert, let’s grab one last taste of modern civilization. The Moa winery, in the community of Zofar, is a family winery that was founded and is operated with one goal in mind- making the wine that the owners would like to drink. They choose grapes from the Negev highlands and produce it in a small winery just beside their home. The wines have a light body and are extremely suitable for drinking in the desert climate, so be sure to pack a bottle for the road. Before you leave, take a look at the logo on the bottle you grabbed- The name is no coincidence, and the icon is an artist rendition of the floorplan of your next stop.
Ancient Moa
Just south of Zofar is the official entrance to the incense route. From this point, a short drive along a gravely wadi, will take you to the ruins of the ancient Moa- a fort and a caravanserai that were established to support the caravans as they prepare for the challenging pass through the Negev. Around them the ruins of the small town that grew here during the Roman period. Climb up to the small fortress. From the top you can see the outline of a small reservoir that once filled from a spring that has since dried, and an aqueduct that fed the caravanserai.
Along the road
Moa was the launching pad for a hard push through mountainous and isolated terrain. As you drive west the road will wind through narrow canyons, spotted with Acacia trees here and there. If you are lucky, you catch a glimpse of Gazelles grazing or resting in the shade of the trees. You’ll climb up to the Katzra stronghold, and through the canyon to the Nekarot cistern- where water was not naturally available the Nabateans built a hidden reservoir and diverted seasonal flash floods from a small ravine into it. The Drive will become more and more challenging, and your drivers will test their abilities over boulders, loose gravel and rock ledges until you arrive at Ein Saharonim, a small spring, and Khan Saharonim- the caravanserai that was built next to it, and marked the end of the long day that took the Nabatean traders from Moa on their way west.
Makhtesh Ramon
Khan and Ein Saharonim are located at the entrance to Makhtesh Ramon. Driving through this unique geological formation, you’ll get to experience the power of geology as you drive through ancient rock layers and colorful layers of ancient deposits. As you climb up the northern cliffs, you’ll arrive at the town of Mitzpe Ramon, located at the most amazing viewpoint.
On the edge of town, in the Desert Shade eco lodge, is the Nabato Winery. The winery produces small batches of wines from locally grown grapes. The wines of the Nabato winery have a solid body and strong flavors, drawn from the harsh growing conditions of the grapes in the high Negev desert.
The farm is also a great spot to organize a late lunch on this long day of travel, and offers lodging in cabins, if you prefer to take it easy and split the day into two.
The city of Avdat
North of Mitzpe Ramon, overlooking the upper Zin valley, is Avdat National Park was established around the ruins of the ancient city of Avdat. Avdat was founded as yet another caravan stop, for over time grew and became a thriving city during the Roman and Byzantine periods. This is a great opportunity to see how the Nabatean nomads eventually settled and built homes, workshops, temples and eventually churches and even wine presses. Don’t miss the caves dug along the hillside and the bathhouse and well at the bottom of the city. Since 2005, Avdat is an UNESCO world heritage site.
Your long day along the incense route is about to come to an end, but you should have time for one last toast. The Sde Boker winery is located in Kibbutz Sde Boker and represents the continuation of the old wine making traditions that you witnessed in Avdat. Zvi, the winemaker, produces California style wines with a local twist- fresh, fruity and easily distinguishable. Do not miss his Malbec.
The winery accepts after-hours tastings, and on a long day like this, you’ll probably have to reserve one.
Don’t want it to end?
The Sde Boker winery is located right at the entrance to Ben Gurion’s desert home and the Kedma Hotel. Book yourself a room at the hotel, so that you can relax at the end of this exciting day. Hang out by the pool and take another sip of wine.