Discoveries around the Zin Valley
What do you get when you mix ancient nomads, visionary leaders and dedicated farmers, and sprinkle some pristine nature on top?
The Zin Valley is one of the most iconic spots in Israel’s Negev desert. Most chances are you’ve seen pictures of the breathtaking view from the site of David Ben Gurion, Israel’s first prime minister. He is buried right on the edge of this barren valley.
Hidden within the canyons along the sides of this valley are some magnificent springs, and these, in turn, have attracted plants and animals, and formed oases. Throughout history, the nomads of the desert have migrated between these islands of life, which today are protected nature reserves. These ancient desert dwellers have served as inspiration for the modern settlement of desert- Starting from David Ben Gurion’s famous move to the isolated community of Sde Boker, and continuing all the way to the modern farmers that settled the lone-farms 30 years ago, and have since specialized in desert wine-making.
- Where?
The Zin Valley near Sde Boker. 1 hour south of Beer Sheva
- Who?
Anyone looking for a fascinating day in the desert- suitable for everyone
- When?
October through May
- How long?
Approximately 6-7 hours including tastings
* It is recommended to contact the businesses before arrival in order to make a reservation
Ben Gurion’s Grave
The best place to start any day around the Zin Valley is at the amazing lookout point at Ben Gurion’s grave. David Ben Gurion was Israel’s first prime minister. To him, the Negev desert held the promise for the future of the state of Israel, and he saw to it that the proper resources and manpower were directed to unlocking its potential. It is therefore not at all surprising that he eventually chose to move to the Negev desert, and that he made Kibbutz Sde Boker his second, and eventually his primary home.
When Pola, his wife, died in 1968, David Ben Gurion himself chose this spot, in front of this amazing scenery, for her final resting place, knowing that he would eventually be buried beside her. The site overlooks the cliffs of the Zin valley, and the entrances to the Ein Avdat canyon- an oasis protected as a national park.
Take your time and walk slowly along the paths leading to the grave plot. You’ll see ibex hanging out in the shade of this desert garden. Notice the simplicity of the graves, and how they blend in the awesomeness of the landscape.
Go back to your car and pass through the entrance to the national park. You’ll have to pay at the booth, and drive down into Ein Avdat National park.
Ein Avdat National park
The Zin valley is one of the longest drainage systems in Israel. Its upper tributaries start next to the town of Mitzpe Ramon, and it runs all the way to the dead sea. In between it takes on different shapes and characteristics, depending on the terrain and the rock. Some sections of the Zin are wide valleys or gravelly washes, and other parts run between rolling hills. Here At Ein Avdat the Zin has cut a deep canyon in the natural chalk, and exposed the local aquifer, creating three springs. Thanks to them, fresh water flows through the canyon at Ein Avdat year-round. This is while the rest of the Zin valley only sees water during the rare handful of flash flood events that occur each year. The canyon is home to a variety of plants that seem out of place in the desert- Reeds, Poplar and Pistacia trees. Ibex and Hirex climb the rocks and vultures nest on its cliff ledges.
There are several options for hiking in the canyon, ranging in difficulty and length, so make sure to get the proper instructions from the local ranger. Don’t miss the waterfall and pool in the center of the oasis, and find a spot to sit and just take the beauty in. When you stop moving and relax for a moment, that’s when you get a chance to see the animals and birds that live in the oasis.
Once you get back to your car (depending on which option of trail you chose to hike), drive to the Carmey Avdat farm and winery.
You’ll know this place is different just from the short drive in. The vines grow in neat rows on either side of the short entrance road, standing in stark contrast to the rocky bare terrain of the hills around the small wadi that the farm sits in. Carmey Avdat Farm was one of the first “Lone farms” that were started here almost 25 years ago. Hannah, Eyal and their children plowed and cleared the plots, planted the vines, built their home and started hosting guests in small B&B cabins. They built a small winery, and, over time, developed their blends and their own character. Since that humble beginning they have grown, and have recently opened a beautiful cafe, which serves the perfect dishes to go with the farm’s wines. This is a great spot for a light lunch following your oasis hike. You can also reserve a guided tasting at the farm’s cellar. Or purchase local art, crafts and produce from the neighboring region.
Rock Art park at Mt. Mihya
On the hill above the Carmey Avdat farm there is a little-known site where ancient rock art: carvings on the face of the naturally dark rocks, were discovered. Some of the carvings are thousands of years old, while others might only be a couple of centuries or even more recent. Walking between the patches of dark rock along the hillside is not strenuous, but watch your step and be careful not to step on the delicate markings. You’ll find the images of Ibex, hunting scenes, camels, geometric shapes and letters from ancient languages that were once spoken among the nomads of this desert. Nobody knows for sure who the ancient artists were and why they chose these rocks specifically.
Drive back out to HW40 and head north to Sde Boker.
The original settlers of Sde Boker first saw this area as soldiers driving through here in the winter of 1949. They were so impressed by how green the desert got after the winter rains, and by all of the grass they saw. When the war was over they decided to come back to this spot and raise cattle (the word Boker actually means cowboy). What they didn’t know was that the winter of 49 was an exceptionally rainy one, and that those grassy plains rarely looked like that. It took many years of trial and error for the farmers at the Kibbutz to find the right crops and the right irrigation techniques that could survive in the desert. So it should come as no surprise that when Zvi Remmek suggested growing grapes and producing wine- his colleagues were somewhat skeptical…
Well, now you can be the judges of that. The Sde Boker winery offers tastings in their small store. The winery combines new-world with old-world varietals, and offers a small selection of carefully crafted and aged wines. You can also grab a cup of coffee and a bite to eat in the small coffee shop that shares the building with the winery store.
Don’t want it to end?
The Sde Boker winery store is located right at the entrance to Ben Gurion’s desert home and the Kedma Hotel.
Book yourself a room at the hotel, so that you can just relax at the end of this exciting day. Hang out by the pool and take another sip of wine. Tomorrow you can visit the home of David Ben Gurion- the prime minister who chose to set an example and move to the desert he believed in so much. The museum offers displays and videos in many languages, and is a fun and interesting visit for all ages.