A sip of mountain air
Ancient cisterns and modern vineyards in the high desert of Mitzpe Ramon
When most people think of the desert they think of hot air and a blazing sun. Not a plant is sight…
On this day trip you’ll discover a desert that’s actually pretty cool and get a chance to sip crisp whites and earthy reds seasoned with the antiquity of ancient cisterns and the rareness of desert wildflowers.
- Where?
Along road 171, North of Mitzpe Ramon
- Who?
This trip is best suited for active wine lovers. You’ll get a chance to go on an easy hike between tastings
- When?
The best time of year for this trip is from late winter to spring. February-June
- How long?
Approximately 6 hours including tastings
* It is recommended to contact the businesses before arrival in order to make a reservation
Where to start?
Heading north from Mitzpe Ramon, drive 6km north to RUHOT junction, and make a left turn to road 171. On your right is Eshkolot Vineyard – Mishor Wine that realize the Marom family vision to build an educational farm about traditional desert farming practices. Olive groves grow on most of the agricultural land, alongside vineyards and Israel’s blessed seven species. Right next to it HaRuchot Vineyard – Porath Winery with highly praised grape varieties, with high demand among Negev winemakers, and from which the vintner and owner Hillel Porat makes his own unique wine. Afterwards you will find couple vineyards in the area- two of them we will get to. At this point you’ll pass BAHAD 1- the IDF’s officer academy, which was built here in 1968. Once you pass the concrete buildings of the army campus, you can’t help but notice the huge vineyard that fills the entire left (south) side of the road.
The Ramon vineyard was planted in 2010 by a few founding families from Mitzpe Ramon. The group adheres to all the rules of KASHRUT, and also donates 50% of all of the profits to various charities in Mitzpe Ramon. As you’ll be able to see from the signs in front of the rows- the vineyard is home to a wide range of varietals. Most of the grapes grown here are sent to winemakers from different parts of the country who wish to include the unique flavor qualities of the desert in their blends.
The Ramon vineyard does keep a small portion of their grapes for their own small-batch Kosher wines. You can enjoy a tasting of them in the oasis garden at the entrance to the vineyard. Sitting beside the small pond in this nurtured garden with a glass of Chardonnay or Cab really… you start to understand what the effort is for.
Go back to the road and turn Left (west). Drive for 5.5km, to the sign to NANA Estate Winery. Drive in and follow the signs all the way in between the neat rows of groomed vines to the hidden tasting room.
NANA is a nickname. It’s a cute and funny nickname for a very serious, tough and dedicated man- Eran Raz. Eran was one of the first farmers and winemakers of this area. He came here from the Judean hills with a vision of reviving ancient winemaking traditions, and an unyielding faith in the special qualities provided by the desert soil and the extremes of desert climate. It takes a special breed of winemaker to fight real-estate bureaucrats and bandits alike, and NANA definitely belongs to that breed. The vineyard and winery that carry his name are run under strict standards of quality, and have won numerous international awards.
You can also grab a picnic basket here, and enjoy the shaded garden, which stands in contrast to the barren wadi the vineyard is planted in. If you prefer an indoor experience, the small tasting room offers an intimate and educational tasting experience.
The Hemet cistern
After two tastings, it’s time to stretch your legs and take in some of this amazing scenery.
Go back to the road and turn left (west). Drive for another 5 km, until the road drops down and curves to the right and then sharply to the left. You’ll see a brown sign to your left for the HEMET CISTERN. Park and get ready for a walk. This 4.5 km loop-hike will take you to the edge of the Ramon Crater. It’s not really a crater, but, in fact, something much more rare and unique- and the view from the edge is nothing you’ve ever seen before. From the end of February until the middle of April, the slopes along the trail, and especially the rim of the crater, become the stage for two rare floral performances: Desert Tulips, and desert Rhubarb. Nothing beats that first sighting of a bright red flower on a baren rocky slope… The Hemet Cistern, where the hike starts and ends, is a 3,000 year old water reservoir that still fills up during rainy years. The cistern is part of a farming settlement that the kings of Judah established along the trading routes of the desert. Just like today, the settlers of biblical times sought the cooler climate of the high desert for their crops.
A detailed description of the hike, along with safety recommendations can be found here.
It’s time to kick back and enjoy the most relaxed tasting in the entire Negev, and discover rare qualities in dusty bottles. Back on the road – head back the way you came (east). Drive for 6.5km and turn right at the sign for Shezaf Vineyard. Tzur Shezaf is a journalist, author, activist and explorer. In between these many accomplishments he was also able to grow a balanced vineyard. One where herbicides are considered an obscenity and the surrounding natural world is encouraged to mix with the vines. Tzur believes that this balanced approach gives the grapes their heart. A tasting at the stone hut that triples as a tool shed and bottling shop is not only a culinary delight, but a philosophical journey, so come prepared to be tempted.
This is also where you’re going to catch the sunset and the end of the trip.
Don’t want it to end?
A natural continuation of this day would be to spend the night at the vineyards. Both Shezaf and NANA offer magical stays in the vineyards. They are very different in their design and atmosphere, but both will give you an unforgettable night. Alternatively, you can stay in one of the hotels or B&Bs of Mitzpe Ramon, with easy access to the spice quarter for an evening outing. There you’ll be able to experience the musical scene and the vibrant culinary culture in this cool desert town.